Most visitors who walk into Illum come for the luxury fashion and the glossy beauty hall — and leave without realising they’ve missed the best bit. Tucked on the fourth floor of this grand department store on Strøget is a rooftop terrace with bars, restaurants and sweeping views over the old city — and it’s completely free to go up. Illum is two experiences in one: a polished luxury department store, and a secret viewpoint locals use for a sunny drink. Let me show you both — and clear up the single most confusing thing about it.
This is a guide to Illum Copenhagen — the store, the food hall, the hidden rooftop, the tax-free shopping, and (crucially) why Illum is not the same as Illums Bolighus.
Illum at a glance
- Where: Østergade 52, on Strøget overlooking Amagertorv (metro: Kongens Nytorv or Gammel Strand)
- What: Copenhagen’s leading luxury department store, opened 1891
- The secret: a free rooftop terrace (4th floor) with bars, restaurants and city views
- Food hall: ILLUM Underground in the basement (with a MENY gourmet market)
- Crucial: Illum ≠ Illums Bolighus (the separate design store nearby)
- Tax-free for non-EU shoppers, often refunded in-store
Illum vs Illums Bolighus: read this first
Let me clear up the city’s number-one shopping mix-up before anything else. Illum (Østergade 52) is a multi-floor luxury fashion and beauty department store with a rooftop. Illums Bolighus (Amagertorv 10, a few doors away on the same square) is a separate Danish-design and homeware store. They share the Illum family name and sit almost next to each other, which is why visitors constantly walk into the wrong one. If you want fashion, beauty and the rooftop, you want Illum. If you want furniture, lighting and ceramics, you want Illums Bolighus — covered in my Danish design shops guide. Sorted? Good.
What is Illum?
Illum Copenhagen is the city’s grandest contemporary luxury department store, sitting right on Strøget at the corner overlooking Amagertorv and the Stork Fountain. It was founded in 1891 by Anton Carl Illum, with the grand atrium building taking shape in the 1920s; the distinctive two-swallows logo even comes from the letter in which his fiancée accepted his proposal. Today it’s a polished, multi-brand emporium spread over five floors plus a basement, mixing international luxury houses with the best Scandinavian fashion and design. Even as a non-shopper, it’s a beautiful building to step into — and the rooftop alone justifies the visit.
Floor by floor
Illum is laid out for easy browsing:
- Ground floor — a large, excellent beauty hall, strong on niche and Scandinavian/clean beauty (think Byredo, Zarkoperfume and the like).
- First floor — menswear and shoes.
- Second floor — womenswear and shoes, from contemporary Scandi labels (Stine Goya, Filippa K, Acne) to luxury.
- Upper floors — sport/athleisure, kids, and a design floor with Scandinavian homeware and gifts.
- In-store boutiques include big luxury names like Chanel and Armani.
- Basement — ILLUM Underground food hall.
The hidden rooftop
Here’s the move most tourists don’t know: ride straight up to the 4th-floor rooftop, which is free to access. It’s a long terrace wrapping the building with indoor and outdoor seating and a cluster of eateries — seafood, Neapolitan pizza, sushi, a coffee spot, a brasserie bar — and genuinely lovely views over Amagertorv, Strøget and across to Christiansborg Palace. You don’t have to buy anything to go up and enjoy the panorama, which makes it one of the best free viewpoints in the city centre — a budget-friendly alternative to the paid towers. Grab a coffee or a glass of wine at sunset and it’s a small slice of local-in-the-know Copenhagen. More free ideas in my free things to do guide.
ILLUM Underground: the food hall
The basement ILLUM Underground is the store’s food and lifestyle floor, home to a MENY gourmet food market plus specialty counters — Lakrids by Bülow liquorice, chocolate, a bakery, juice and grab-and-go spots. It’s a good stop for edible souvenirs or a quick bite, and it’s also where you’ll find the customer service centre that handles tax-free refunds.
Tax-free shopping at Illum
For non-EU visitors, Illum makes VAT refunds easy. Denmark’s VAT is 25%, and you can reclaim up to around 19% on purchases over 300 DKK per shop. Handily, Illum’s service centre in the basement can often process a Global Blue refund on the spot (with a credit card as guarantee), saving you the airport queue — though you’ll still need to get the form customs-stamped when you leave the EU. See my Copenhagen money guide for the full process.
Illum vs Magasin du Nord
Copenhagen’s two great department stores are a short walk apart, so which to choose? Illum (on Strøget) is the sleeker, more contemporary-luxury option, with a strong beauty hall, Scandinavian fashion and that free rooftop. Magasin du Nord (on Kongens Nytorv) is grander and broader — bigger range, a historic building, a famous food hall and the Hans Christian Andersen room. For fashion, beauty and a rooftop break, pick Illum; for breadth, history and a food-hall lunch, pick the Magasin du Nord department store. They’re close enough to do both in an afternoon.
Practical tips
- Getting there: it’s in the heart of the Strøget pedestrian strip; nearest metro Kongens Nytorv or Gammel Strand.
- Go up to the rooftop even if you don’t shop — it’s free and a great viewpoint, best at sunset (spring–autumn).
- Tax-free: use the basement service centre for an on-the-spot refund (non-EU, over 300 DKK).
- Don’t confuse it with Illums Bolighus (the design store on the same square).
- Hours are generally daily into the evening; check illum.dk for the rooftop’s hours before a special trip.
The rooftop, in depth: Copenhagen’s free view
The ILLUM Rooftop deserves more than a passing mention, because it’s genuinely one of the city centre’s best-value pleasures. Up on the 4th floor, a terrace wraps around the building with both sheltered indoor seating and open-air tables, and a row of eateries to choose from — typically a seafood restaurant, a Neapolitan pizzeria, a sushi spot, a poké bar, a brasserie-bar and a coffee counter. The views stretch over Amagertorv and the Stork Fountain, along Strøget, and across the rooftops to Christiansborg Palace — a lovely panorama you’d otherwise pay to see from one of the city’s towers. The clever part: you don’t need to buy anything to go up, so even budget travellers can ride the lift for the view. That said, it’s a delightful spot to linger over a coffee, a glass of wine or a casual meal, especially at sunset from spring through autumn. Locals use it as a shortcut to a sunny drink in the middle of town; now you can too. Do check current rooftop hours on illum.dk, as they run slightly later than the store on some evenings.
The beauty hall and Scandinavian fashion
Beyond the rooftop, Illum’s strongest shopping draws are its ground-floor beauty hall and its Scandinavian fashion. The beauty hall is one of the best in the city, particularly for niche and “clean” Scandinavian brands that can be hard to find elsewhere — think cult fragrances and skincare alongside the big international names. On the fashion floors, Illum balances global luxury houses (Chanel, Armani and the like) with the contemporary Scandinavian labels the region is famous for — Stine Goya, Acne Studios, Filippa K, Toteme and more — making it a great one-stop for that effortless Copenhagen look. There’s also a design floor for Scandinavian homeware and gifts, so you can pick up tasteful souvenirs without leaving the building. It’s a curated, polished experience aimed squarely at the design-and-fashion-conscious shopper.
A little history
Illum’s story adds a bit of romance to the marble and glass. It was founded in 1891 by the wholesaler Anton Carl Illum, beginning as a shop for sewing items and dress accessories before growing into the grand department store you see today, with its soaring atrium taking shape in the 1920s. A charming detail: the store’s two-swallows logo is said to come from a little vignette on the letter in which Illum’s fiancée, Marie, accepted his marriage proposal — a romantic emblem hiding in plain sight on a luxury store. The building’s facade was elegantly renovated in 2016, and the store is now part of an international luxury-retail group, but it remains a distinctly Copenhagen institution on the city’s most famous street. Knowing the backstory makes a wander through the atrium a touch more magical.
Making the most of a visit
Here’s how I’d play it. Enter from Strøget into the beauty hall for a browse (and any clean-beauty finds), ride up through the fashion and design floors, then head to the 4th-floor rooftop for the free view and a coffee or sunset drink. On the way out, drop to the basement (ILLUM Underground) for an edible souvenir — a Lakrids tin or some chocolate — and, if you’ve shopped, sort your tax-free refund at the service centre there to skip the airport queue. The whole thing takes an hour or two and combines shopping, a viewpoint and a snack in one central stop. Because it sits mid-Strøget, it slots perfectly between the LEGO flagship, the design flagships at Amagertorv, and a walk down to Magasin du Nord, the grand old department store and Nyhavn.
Is Illum worth visiting?
Yes — and not only for shoppers. As a luxury department store it’s polished and well-stocked, strong on beauty and Scandinavian fashion; but the real reason to step inside is the free rooftop, one of the best-value viewpoints in central Copenhagen, plus the convenient on-the-spot tax-free refunds and the gourmet food hall. Treat it as a “luxury under one roof, with a secret view on top” stop, remember it’s not Illums Bolighus, and you’ll get far more out of it than the average tourist who never finds the lift to the terrace. Round out your spree with the full Copenhagen shopping guide and the rest of the design scene.
The atrium and the building
Illum is as much a piece of architecture as a shop, and it’s worth a moment’s appreciation. The store traces its origins to 1891, when Anton Carl Illum opened a small shop for sewing items and dress accessories on Østergade; it moved to its current spot in 1899 and was dramatically expanded in the 1920s, when the grand glass-topped atrium that defines the store today took shape. Standing in that light-filled central well, with the floors rising around you, you get the sense of theatre that great early-20th-century department stores were designed to create. The facade was elegantly renovated in 2016, blending the historic bones with a contemporary polish that suits the luxury brands inside. Even the logo has a story — the two swallows come from a little drawing on the letter in which Illum’s fiancée accepted his marriage proposal, a romantic emblem hiding in plain sight on a temple of luxury retail. It all adds a layer of charm to what could otherwise be just another high-end shop.
A shopping-and-rooftop itinerary
Here’s how to get the most out of Illum in one smooth visit. Enter from Strøget into the glossy ground-floor beauty hall — the strongest single department, especially for niche and Scandinavian clean-beauty brands you won’t easily find elsewhere. Ride up through the fashion floors (Scandinavian labels like Stine Goya and Acne alongside international luxury houses) to the design floor for Scandinavian homeware and giftable pieces. Then make the move most tourists miss: continue up to the 4th-floor rooftop, free to access, for sweeping views over Amagertorv, Strøget and across to Christiansborg, ideally pausing for a coffee or a sunset glass of wine at one of the terrace eateries. On the way out, drop to the basement (ILLUM Underground) for an edible souvenir from the MENY gourmet market or a Lakrids tin, and — if you’ve shopped — sort your tax-free refund on the spot at the service centre there, skipping the airport queue. That loop gives you beauty, fashion, design, a free viewpoint and a snack in an hour or two, all in one building.
Where Illum sits in Copenhagen’s retail scene
To place Illum properly, it helps to see it against its peers. Within central Copenhagen, the luxury-department-store crown is shared between Illum and Magasin du Nord, a short walk apart. Illum is the sleeker, more contemporary-luxury option, smack in the middle of Strøget, strong on beauty and Scandinavian fashion, and crowned by that free rooftop. Magasin, over at Kongens Nytorv, is grander and broader — a bigger range, a historic building, a famous food hall and the Hans Christian Andersen room. A few doors from Illum on Amagertorv sits Illums Bolighus, the unrelated Danish-design store (don’t confuse them), and the design flagships of Royal Copenhagen and Georg Jensen. So Illum is best understood as the fashion-beauty-and-rooftop player in a cluster of world-class shopping, all within a couple of hundred metres on and around Strøget. Visit it for that polished luxury experience and the view; cross to Magasin for breadth; and step into Illums Bolighus for design. Together they make Amagertorv and Strøget one of Europe’s great compact shopping districts.
Practical extras and the free-view angle
A couple of final practicalities make an Illum visit smoother. The store is centrally placed on Strøget, a few minutes’ walk from the Kongens Nytorv and Gammel Strand metro stations and from Nyhavn, so it slots into any city-centre day. For budget travellers, the rooftop is a genuine tip worth repeating: it’s one of the best free viewpoints in central Copenhagen, a money-saving alternative to the paid towers like the Round Tower or Christiansborg’s tower — you can ride straight up and enjoy the panorama without spending a krone, then decide whether to stay for a drink. For shoppers, the in-store tax-free refund (non-EU, over 300 DKK) is a real convenience. And do check illum.dk for current hours before a special trip, as the rooftop sometimes stays open later than the store. Little things, but they turn a good visit into a great one.
Final thoughts on Illum
Illum is worth stepping into even if luxury fashion isn’t your reason for travelling, because it’s really two experiences in one: a polished department store strong on beauty and Scandinavian style, and a secret free rooftop with some of the best views in the city centre. Remember it’s not Illums Bolighus (that’s the design store nearby), ride the lift to the terrace for the panorama, use the basement for souvenirs and tax-free refunds, and you’ll get far more out of it than the average shopper who never finds the rooftop. Set against grander Magasin and the design flagships next door, it completes one of Europe’s most concentrated luxury-shopping districts. Round out your spree with the full complete guide to shopping in Copenhagen and the best Danish design shops.
Last updated: July 2026. Photo credits: Mitchell Soeharsono, Hiroko Nakagawa / Pexels.
Frequently asked questions
What is Illum in Copenhagen?
Illum is Copenhagen’s leading luxury department store, on Strøget overlooking Amagertorv, with fashion, a big beauty hall, a design floor, a basement food hall and a free rooftop terrace.
What’s the difference between Illum and Illums Bolighus?
Illum (Østergade 52) is a luxury fashion and beauty department store; Illums Bolighus (Amagertorv 10) is a separate Danish-design and homeware store nearby. They share a name but are different shops.
Is the Illum rooftop free?
Yes — you can ride up to the 4th-floor rooftop terrace for free and enjoy the views and eateries without buying anything.
What is ILLUM Underground?
It’s the basement food hall, home to a MENY gourmet market and specialty food counters, plus the customer service centre for tax-free refunds.
Can I get a tax-free refund at Illum?
Yes — non-EU residents can reclaim VAT on purchases over 300 DKK, often refunded on the spot at the basement service centre (with airport customs validation).
Illum or Magasin du Nord — which is better?
Illum is sleeker and more contemporary-luxury with a rooftop; Magasin is grander and broader with a food hall and history. They’re a short walk apart.
Compare with Magasin du Nord, browse the Danish design shops, and see the full guide to the city’s shopping districts.
